How to Give Your Dog Medicine

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For some reason your protection dog may need to take medications, weekly, monthly, or even daily if certain health problems develop. Giving dogs medicine can be a process that creates a lot of anxiety for both you and your Personal Protection Dogs so it is important for you to know how to properly go about it. If you develop a routine for giving them their medication it will greatly decrease the anxiety. Here are some tips that will make medicine time much less stressful for the both of you.

First, your veterinarian will let you know whether or not your guard dog's medication can be given with food, or taken on an empty stomach. If the tablet or capsule medicine can be taken with food then you can make what is called a "meatball". A meatball is when you place the pill inside the center of a small ball of food, such as canned food or cheese. This will obviously disguise the pill and make your protection dog excited to eat it. It is a good idea though to test this meatball trick first to see if your dog chews or gulps it whole. Most dogs gulp the whole thing, but if they do chew it there is a chance of them finding the pill and spitting it out. If they spit it out the tablet or capsule may have become partially dissolved and hard to handle, which could waste that dose of medicine. Also, if the Guard Dogs bites into the pill, it will likely leave a bad taste in their mouth making it harder to give them medicine a second time.

If your dog's medicine can not be given with the meatball, there are other ways to make the process much easier. The medicine given to you by the vet will most likely be in pill, capsule or liquid form. Being that you can not conceal the medicine your dog will become much more anxious and harder to handle. Start by holding your protection dog's head from the top using your less dominant hand. Then tilt their head backwards, and gently fold their upper lip over their teeth as you open their mouth. This will protect your hand from getting bit if they do decide to bite down, because they will end up biting their lip instead. Next place your thumb on the roof of their mouth, and take the pill in your other hand. Drop the pill or capsule as far back over the tongue as you possibly can. Immediately close their mouth and blow on their nose, this will encourage them to swallow. If you have to give your guard dog liquid medication, take the dropper and squirt it into the pouch between their teeth and cheek. Then try and hold their mouth closed and stroke their neck or blow on their nose to encourage them to swallow. Liquid medicine could possibly enter the dog's windpipe, to prevent this from happening do not tilt their head backwards. Although giving your protection dog medicine may be stressful, it is an extremely important factor to keep them healthy.

Remember if you need to give your German Shepherd, Belgian Malinois, or Dutch Shepherd  Protection Dogs medicine it is not a big deal and by following these simple tips you will be helping your dog in no time.

Training the Send Out Exercise in Schutzhund

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Schutzhund is a dog sport originating in Germany as a way to test the working ability of German Shepherd dogs during the early 1900's. Since then, it has involved into a popular sport, and is enjoyed by canine enthusiasts worldwide. The sport itself offers titles to dogs who compete favorably. Teams of handler and dog can compete for specialised titles that focus on one specific area, but the standard Schutzhund titles demand proficiency in three areas: tracking, obedience and protection.

The purpose of obedience is to test a dog's loyalty, intelligence and ability to be trained. Obedience exercises are performed in all levels of Schutzhund training, and are especially important during the preliminary Begleithunde (BH) stages. One such exercise is known as the "send out" exercise. While the basic concept of Send Out is fairly simple, this exercise is considered one of the more difficult to train for, especially for inexperienced handlers. In the exercise, the handler gives a "send out" command (typically "voraus"), to which the dog must respond by running in the direction signalled by the handler. After about 30 paces, the handler gives the "platz" command, to which the dog must respond by immediately stopping its run and entering a down stay.

As with all distance exercises, it is best to start training at short distances, and gradually increase the distance until it is above 30 paces. Before training the send out exercise, it is important that the dog already be trained for to down stay with the platz command. Begin the send out training by having the dog simply run out, and then gradually add in the platz command. Many trainers begin training by placing a toy in the field and having the dog run to the toy. However, the effectiveness of using a toy is debatable. Regardless of how training begins, one should keep in mind that no toy or object will be present in the Schutzhund ring during judging. Speed is important in this exercise, so it is important that you train for the exercise when your dog is well rested and has energy.

Whether you have a German Shepherd,  Belgian Malinois, obedience is the most important factor in successful training. If a dog cannot consistently follow basic commands, there is no way it will be able to complete complicated protection exercises. One should also keep in mind that Schutzhund training is effective only for sporting dogs. If you want a true Protection Dogs, you need a dog that has been trained specifically for real-world protection from the very beginning.

The Bloodhound As a Working Dog

The bloodhound is a classic working dog with a long history. As with many hounds, it is speculated that the bloodhound was developed by the Belgian and french people, centuries ago. The bloodhound is mentioned in writings dating back as early as the 14th century, where they were bred for the purpose of hunting deer and wild boar. The bloodhound's long history of use as a hunting dog have given the breed a reputation for remarkable tracking skills. It is a misconception that bloodhounds were frequently used in packs. In fact, most bloodhounds track solo in order to minimize noise and to avoid startling their game.

As hunting changed over the years, so did the role of the bloodhound as a working dog. Local police forces began to take note of the breed's incredible ability to track human beings by scent. Before the abolishment of slavery, bloodhounds were imported to the United States and used to track runaway slaves. Since then, they have found more noble work with police forces who have used them to track criminals and locate missing persons.

Today, bloodhounds are a popular cultural icon and often seen on film or on TV. However, the actual use of bloodhounds by the police has diminished. The gentle nature of the bloodhound combined with difficulties in training and obedience have caused the police to take on more protection-oriented breeds such as the German Shepherd, Belgian Malinois. However, bloodhounds are still sometimes used in tracking situations where there is little to no risk of danger to the police officer and the dog.

Bark and Hold Exercise in Schutzhund

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Schutzhund is a dog sport that is practised by canine enthusiasts in Germany, the United States, and many other countries worldwide. It began in Germany as a way to test the ability of working German Shepherd dogs during the early 1900's, but has since grown into a popular sport with dedicated followers from all over the world. To the average spectator, the sport of Schutzhund may be indistinguishable from real protection work, but when it's time to invest money in a dog who is expected to protect oneself and ones family, knowing the difference between a sporting dog and a Personal Protection Dogs is invaluable.

There are many Schutzhund exercises that fail to properly train and prepare a dog for real life scenarios, but one of the worst, by far, is the Bark and Hold exercise. In this exercise, a decoy will hide himself behind a two-sided structure known as a blind. The decoy wears a bite sleeve over one arm, and holds a stick in the other. The dog is trained to corner the decoy inside the blind, and bark aggressively for a length of time. Eventually, the dog is given the signal to take a bite. During the bite, the decoy will strike the dog with the stick in an attempt to distract and disorient it.

Amongst true protection dog trainers, this exercise is given another name: Bark and Die. As grim as this may sound, the reality is that Schutzhund dogs are being trained to make several mistakes in this exercise. In a life or death situation, these mistakes could have terrible consequences. The first big mistake is that the dog is trained to stand and bark in front of a man holding a weapon. The idea behind this is simply absurd. The reality is that an armed criminal is not going to stand idly by while a protection dog barks at him; he is going to attack. The second big mistake is that once the dog takes a bite, the weapon arm is not targeted. Targeting the weapon arm is absolutely essential, as it prevents the criminal from fighting back. A real criminal will not be softly hitting the dog with a small stick; he will be attacking with a real weapon. In a dangerous situation, these mistakes can not only cost the dog its life, but could also cost the lives of the human beings it's protecting as well.

Whether you're looking to purchase a German Shepherd, Dutch Shepherd or Belgian Malinois as a protection dog, it is vital that you understand the difference between a sporting dog, and a real Protection Dogs. Schutzhund is just a sport, and a dog trained in Schutzhund simply cannot be depended on to protect the lives of you and your family.

Can You Catch a Disease From Your Dog?

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There has always been the question of whether or not you can catch a disease from you protection dog. Almost everyone is familiar with stories of rabid dogs and just by hearing the word rabies, they are stricken with fear. Rabies also, referred to as a zoonotic disease, is virus that has the possibility of infecting almost any mammal, including dogs. It lives in the saliva of the animal and is transmitted typically by bite wounds. If the virus is not treated, it will attack the nervous system. Personal protection Dogs infected with rabies begin to show a change in temperament, and act rabidly. Zoonotic diseases can be transmitted from a wild or domesticated animal to a human, and vice versa. Since there is so much concern, it is obvious that there is definitely a potential for you to catch a disease from your Personal Protection  Dogs .

There are also other ways for you to catch a disease from your dog besides Zoonotic Disease. Even if the dog does not appear to be rabid, he could still have a disease that you are not aware of. For example a parasite such as hookworms could be present in the saliva or feces of the protection dog, and there's no way for you to know that before hand. The hookworm could easily spread to you or your child if the dog happens to lick you. This shows how important it is for you to give you protection dog vaccines for worms, and have regular check-ups.

Rabies, hookworms, salmonella, fleas, lime disease, roundworms are all examples of zoonotic diseases that can be caught from your animal. The best solution is to take your protection dog to the vet for regular check-ups and vaccinations. It is a good idea to never handle feces directly. Make sure to always wear gloves when handling your dog's feces, and make sure to pick up any feces in your home quickly to prevent your child from coming in contact with it. Wash your hands frequently when handling any dog, especially unfamiliar ones. You have very little to worry about concerning catching a disease, just always use caution and common sense when handling Protection Dogs.

Training Your Dog for Sheep Herding

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Humans and canines have had a long history together that stretches back for thousands of years. The domestication of dogs was a long process that likely began with wild canines following groups of nomadic humans in order to scavenge scraps of food from them. As ancient nomadic tribes developed into agricultural societies, they began to realise the potential to use the natural behavior of dogs to their advantage. Thus, herding dogs came into existence, and the first working role of canines in human society was established.

Although similar techniques can be applied to herding a wide variety of livestock including goats, sheep and cattle, the term "sheep dog" or "shepherd" is the most commonly used term to describe herding dogs. The roles of herding dogs can differ depending on the circumstance. In some instances, the dog is required to move the livestock by "driving" them; in others, the role of the dog is to keep the livestock from wandering too far from their grazing area. Regardless of the precise role of the herding dog, it remains that the act of herding plays off of the natural predatory instincts of the canine. Of course, many breeds of dog have lost these instincts over thousands of years of being bred for other roles. However, any dog can be tested for herding instincts in order to determine their suitability for work as a herding dog.

It should be noted that while both are often referred to as "sheep dogs", there is a difference between dogs that are trained to herd versus dogs who are trained to guard livestock against natural predators. To add to this confusion, some dogs are expected to perform both roles. For a guard dog, the guarding instincts for which they have been bred will make a good fit for guarding livestock. However, many Guard Dogs today are taken from traditional shepherd breeds such as the German Shepherd, or Belgian Malinois. Dogs from these breeds are likely to still have strong herding instincts, and may be a good fit for herding livestock.

Arthritis, and Bone Joint Disease in Dogs

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Health problems like arthritis often referred to as degenerative joint disease affects not only humans, but also dogs as well. Arthritis is the breakdown of cartilage, which causes the bones to rub against each other. This will cause stiffness, pain and loss of movement in the joints. As a protection dog owner hopefully you do everything in your power to keep them healthy. Including things like giving them medicine to prevent things such as heart worms, making sure they have good nutrition, and have a loving home. You will also naturally notice changes in their mood and behavior. Your guard dog will become like another one of your children, and if they begin to act differently in the slightest way, you will be able to tell. If you notice your protection dog not feeling too well, there is a possibility it could be arthritis. Arthritis affects one out of every five dogs in the U.S, and is a source of unbelievable chronic pain.

Being that your personal protection dogs will not be able to verbally tell you what is wrong with them, it is your responsibility to look for signs of arthritis. Some signs that your dog will show you is favoring a limb and difficulty sitting or standing, these symptoms obviously result from the chronic pain they are in. Also, their joint deterioration will cause them to have stiff or sore joints, and also a hesitancy to jump, run or climb stairs. If your guard dog, for example your Belgian Malinois has arthritis they will have a large decrease in activity and will begin to sleep more and be a lot less alert. If your dog experiences these symptoms for more than two weeks, take them to the vet to be evaluated for arthritis. Therapies for arthritis may include a healthy diet and regular exercise to maintain a proper weight. Drug treatments will also help relieve some of the constant pain your dog is experiencing. The most common treatment for arthritis is non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS). Also over-the-counter treatments, such as pills or foods which contain glucosamine and fatty acids have been known to relieve symptoms of dog arthritis. Regardless of how it's done, making sure that your Protection Dogs is happy and free of pain is the most important thing.

What is an Outcross

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An outcross, is the mating of two largely unrelated animals within the same breed. This type of breeding has been thought of by many breeders as very dangerous. They think this because outcrossing dilutes the qualities of a line and creates a disastrous situation. There have been numerous cases of where breed has gone extremely wrong because of outcross breeding. But before you make the judgement of whether or not outcross breeding is a good idea, it is important to have a good understanding of it. Again an outcross, is when two animals are mated but are completely unrelated. Most people do not realize that virtually every dog in a certain breed can be traced back through their pedigrees as being related. For example if you are mating two German Shepherds, look at their pedigrees to see if they have any family in common. If you do not look far back enough there is a chance that they will be related, making this not a apparent outcross. One of the best ways to determine whether mating two dogs will result in a outcross or not is by calculating their COIs. The COI is calculated over ten generations, fewer would not represent the background accurately. After calculating, if you find out that the cross is low (under 6.25%), or at least substantially lower than the lowest parental COI, then it will be confirmed as a outcross.

Outcross breeding has both advantages and disadvantages. Many specialists advise that an outcross should be performed only if necessary. When you perform an outcross one of the disadvantages that you will more than likely come across is having a "heterogeneous lot". This mean that all of your offspring will display barely any uniformity. For example, if you breed two unrelated Belgian Malinois

, their offspring will turn out one of three ways. Some will look like their mother, or their father, and some will look like neither at all. After breeding a outcross the appearance of the offspring's similarities and differences are immediately noticeable in their appearance; however, in their health and temperament it will take longer. Breeders ultimately risk the danger of losing any breed type they desire to retain. One advantage of outcross breeding is Hybrid Vigor. Hybrid Vigor is a outcross resulting in healthier and stronger offspring. However, obviously not all outcross breedings will result in a Hybrid Vigor. This type of breeding is one that should be taken very seriously by all breeders, because the hopes of maintaining their breed may be at risk.

Remember that when purchasing a German Shepherd or any other breed for that matter it is always best to find a reputable breeder and be aware of things such as outcrossing, inbreeding, etc.

Before Breeding Your Dog

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The practice of mating selected specimens of guard dogs with the intent to maintain or produce specific qualities and characteristics is known as dog breeding. The person who intentionally mates a dam & a sire to produce puppies is known as the breeder. A good breeder has to have good knowledge when breeding for top level Guard Dogs. One of the key factors is to make sure that both the dam & sire are proven, and that they have done the work, the work meaning both dogs have been trained in true protection work, and not for sport. One of the other important things to take into consideration is that both parents come from parents that have worked as true protection dogs.

It is very important to make sure that both dam & sire are in good health, and that they have clean x-rays. Another important thing to verify when breeding good protection dogs is that both parents have good bone density, a good head, and good pigmentation. In the case of breeding a good guard dog one has to take into consideration size, when it comes to guard animals, size does matter. A good guard dog has to not only be good at protecting but also look the part. The real key ingredients to producing a great protection dog all leads back to whether or not the dog has strong nerves.

So please remember, before you consider breeding your German Shepherd, Belgian Malinois or Dutch Shepherd be sure that all you ducks are in order to breed good strong Protection Dogs.

Bathing Your Dog

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In order to maintain your personal protection dog's hygiene you need to bathe them when necessary. It is important to know some helpful facts and tips before bathing them, in order to make the process easier, faster, and all around more efficient. Do not bathe your protection dog too often because that will take away healthy oils found in their coat and skin, which will lead to scratching and irritation. Also too much bathing can soften your protection dog's coat and reduce its insulating qualities. The frequency of bathing your dog is mostly determined by the breed and activities the dog is involved in. Dogs that spend a lot of time outside, engaged in activities that are exposed to dirt and bugs will typically require more bathing. Usually every six weeks or more frequently, if they become overwhelmingly dirty. Other dogs only need to be given a bath every couple of months, or less. Also, to help keep your dog clean between baths, brush them thoroughly and preferably daily. By brushing them daily it will benefit their coat, skin and will lead to your dog looking and smelling good.

Being prepared and knowing what to do will help to make the bath much less stressful for both you and your Personal Protection Dogs. The bath will go much more smoothly if you introduce your dog to the idea of bathing first. You can do this by letting them sniff the comb, brush or clippers, and praise them once they become less timid around the tools. Also, let your dog become use to the sound of running water. Most dogs will get scared by being in the bathtub, they usually jump around, slip and fall. You will more than likely spend most of the time trying to get them to stay inside the tub, and in the process get even wetter than them. Instead of going through this miserable task, try bathing your dog outside. Since they are most likely a larger dog breed, such as a German Shepherd, this will make the bath less stressful for them because they are not in a small confined space. Simply hook their leash up somewhere, so they do not have a chance to run off and use a hose and a bucket. If it is colder weather, another place that is better than the tub is the shower. This will work especially well if you have a hand-held shower head. Your personal protection dog will feel much less stressed standing on a firm surface rather than in a tub full of water.

Before you begin to bathe your protection dog, there are also some important things to know. One thing is to carefully brush out any mats, or tangles because it will be harder to do this once the fur is wet. Make sure you wash their face with a wash cloth instead of pouring water over their face, because his the inside of his ears shouldn't get too wet. If you can, use a good dog shampoo that will benefit their coat and skin. After lathering on the shampoo, and making sure they are completely clean, it is time to rinse. Shampoo residue will lead to itching, so make sure that it is all off, and avoid washing it into their eyes. If your are giving your dog flea bath it is extremely important to start with their face and ears, or else tons of living fleas could end up inside the dog's ears. When you are finished, try squeezing any excess water from your Protection Dogs fur and then wrap them in a large towel to gently rub dry.

How Dogs Eat

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Consuming food or as many refer to as eating, is something that all living things must do to survive. All animals have different ways of eating, and to some people the eating behavior of a guard dog, or any other dog for that matter may seem a little strange. However, to the dog this is the most comfortable way of getting the food into its stomach. "Bolting", it the term used to describe the normal swallowing pattern for a guard dog. There are certain steps that a dog goes through while bolting. First, the dog picks up a piece of food with its teeth, and then tosses the piece of food onto the top of its tongue with a short, quick thrust of its head. Next, without being chewed the piece of food is rolled to the back of its mouth. When the food reaches the base of the tongue, the food is upward and backward into the esophagus by a reflex of the tongue. After this, the piece of food is finally carried to the stomach.

If a piece of food is too large to be swallowed, the dog will then make it so that it is a swallowing size. The dog will hold the food with its paws and using its front teeth will tear it into smaller pieces. If it is too tough to be torn by using its paws, the dog will resort to another method. The dog will cut it into small enough pieces by using two specialized jaw teeth, called carnassial teeth. These teeth have large shearing surfaces that act like scissor blades, which can cut through practically anything. The can cut through tough surfaces like hide, gristle, muscle, and even bone. Although dogs have powerful jaw muscles that are useful for cutting food into swallowing size, they are use very little for chewing the pieces. This is because dogs have a small amount of teeth and they are not equipped for mastication.

Many guard dog owners believe that each breed should be fed differently. However this is not true because the eating behavior of a certain dog, is the eating behavior of the whole species. It is simply because all dogs eat the same. When feeding your Protection Dogs there are some general considerations that can be made. Dogs are not required to eat food like humans, because dogs do not have hands. Their jaws are suited for biting and cutting, not chewing. Dogs rarely gag because they have few gag reflex nerves at the back of their mouth. Dogs also have very few taste buds on their tongue, but have an amazing sense of smell. Overall when feeding your Personal Protection Dogs it is important to realize that they eat much differently from us and the way they eat is normal for them.

The White German Shepherd As a Protection Dog

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The White German Shepherd, sometimes referred to as just White Shepherd, is a white-coated colour variation of the German Shepherd breed. The white colour variation has been present in the breed since it's original development in the late 1800's by Max Von Stephanitz. Their white coats are mistakenly interpreted as a sign of albinism, but genetic analysis has proven this to be false. The white coat is in fact valid colour variation 'caused by a recessive gene. During the 1930's, the Nazi party took control of breeding standards and practises in Germany. Under new control, white coats became grounds for disqualification and White German Shepherds were not permitted to breed. Following the Second World War, dedicated breeders sought to repopulate and rebuild the German Shepherd breed, but the existing breed standards were kept in place, and white coat variations continued to be seen as a fault.

Today, many kennel clubs around the world continue to regard the White Shepherd as a variation of the German Shepherd breed, and most do not permit them to participate in conformation dog shows. However, the United Kennel Club in the United States has declared the White Shepherd to be a separate breed. While the recessive white coat gene is very rare, it is believed by some that the gene pool is significant enough to warrant the development and identification of White Shepherds as a separate breed. The UKC conformation standard states that a White Shepherd should be pure white in colour, although off-white, cream and light tan coloured coats can be accepted. The dog's nose and paw-pads must remain black.

Aside from the obvious difference in colour, White Shepherds are physically identical to the German Shepherd. White Shepherds can be superb workers and make excellent shepherd dogs and guide dogs. Unfortunately, as the white coat is a recessive gene, the gene pool from which White German Shepherds can be bred is limited. As with any breed that is developed for aesthetic preference over working ability, the limited gene pool can have a negative effect on the overall performance of the dog. It is because of this that a White Shepherd may not have the nerves required for work as a Protection Dogs , or a true Personal Protection Dogs.

The Boxer As a Breed

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The Boxer is a molosser-type dog of medium size with a square, muscular build. The head is widely recognizable by the broad skull and square muzzle. The jaws are powerful, with a protruding lower jaw which forms a slight underbite. The coat is short and smooth and is most often fawn or brindle with black around the face and muzzle. White markings on the chest and paws are also common. About a quarter of all boxers are born with excessive white markings, some of which cover nearly their entire body.

However, while white boxers are as physically and mentally capable as their fawn and brindle counterparts, white is not an accepted variation of the breed, and they are not permitted to participate in conformation dog shows. Traditionally, all boxers had their ears cropped and their tails docked. Since then, such procedures have been banned in many countries. Several breeders in Britain have developed a variety of naturally short-tailed boxers in response to this ban.

The Boxer breed was developed in Germany during the late 1800s and is a direct descendant of the now extinct Bullenbeisser. The Bullenbeisser had traditionally been prized by hunters for its powerful jaws and bite. They would pursue large prey such as deer and wild boar and hold the prey until the hunter arrived. However, hunters began to favor smaller, faster dogs and the Bullenbeisser was often cross-bred with imported British Bulldogs. This excessive cross-breeding led to the extinction of the Bullenbeisser breed, but also led to the development of the Boxer. The Boxer was popular in Germany as a working dog, and was used by German military as a messenger and Personal Protection Dogs during the First World War. However, it wasn't until after World War II that the Boxer gained international popularity.

The alert nature and strong jaws of the Boxer is well suited to work as a  Protection Dogs. The breed is also intelligent and is sometimes used as a service dog for the disabled, or taken on as part of a k9 police unit. However, the breed is most commonly used today as a family pet and companion.

Belgian Groenedael Companion Dog or Protection Dog

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The Belgian Groenendael is one of four Belgian sheepdog breeds, the other three being the Laekenois, the Tervuren and the Malinois. All four are physically very similar, with their coat being the only major difference. The majority of countries around the world still classify them as varieties of the some breed. However, the United States has recognized them as different breeds for the past 50 years. The Groenendael is an athletic, muscular, medium-sized dog. Its coat is medium-long, with a thick undercoat, and is almost always solid black, although small patches of white are sometimes found on the chest. Bred as a working sheepdog, the breed is often highly intelligent and energetic. Mostly, health concerns are rare, although overfeeding and lack of proper exercise can lead to laziness and obesity.

The Groenendael was developed in Groenendael, Belgium, by a breeder named Nicholas Rose. Their natural intelligence and protective nature lead to their use as Protection Dogs, and alongside the Belgian Malinois, they became one of the first breeds to be used by the Belgian police. They also make excellent sporting dogs and often perform well at Schutzhund and K.N.P.V. excercises. However, despite their capabilities, the Groenendael, along with the Tervuren, are commonly kept today as a pets and companion dogs, while the Belgian Malinois and Laekenois are used more often as security dogs and protection dogs. This may simply be due to the length of their coats, as the coats of the Groenendael and Tervuren are considerably longer than that of the Malinois and Laekenois.

KNPV And The Bouvier

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In the Netherlands, during the early 1900's, the Koninklijke Nederlandse Politiehond Vereniging was founded. KNPV was first created because there was not a organization whose goal was to organize training of police dogs. These founders wanted to spread the knowledge of this type of training. KNPV conducts police dog trials and then offers certificates. The certificates that they give out to the dogs are respected and coveted by many around the world. In the early days of KNPV the organization would put through the trials many different breeds such as the Bouvier des Flandres. Other breeds such as German Shepherds, Dutch Shepherds, Belgian Malinois , and Dobermans were also among the breeds tried in the KNPV trials.

Most breeds are not cut out for these types of trials. That is because each trial requires a dog that has great nerves, physical strength, agility and stamina. One breed that fits all of these qualities is the Bouvier des Flandres. The Bouvier des Flandres, often referred to simply as the Bouvier originated in Belgium as a work dog around the farm. The types of tasks they would perform would be things such as cart pulling, cattle herder, and a messenger dog. The Bouvier is powerfully built, rough-coated, and all around a strong looking breed. Its tough double coat protects this breed in all weather, which allows them to perform their best always.

The Bouvier, in today's world are no longer being used for the KNPV program, for they have been bred incorrectly and cannot do the sport of KNPV. This breed is also not a good option to make a good personal protection dog for they are too weak in the nerves. The only breeds that are recommended to handle the work of a Protection Dogs in today's world is the German Shepherd, Belgian Malinois and the Dutch shepherd, and with these breeds, there are only 1% of that can do the work.

Remember that KNPV has always been a sporting title and a certification program for civilians to train dogs. I no way does the KNPV represent a title or a quality of a Personal Protection Dogs. The tests that are put forth through the trials of KNPV do not even come close to all of the qualities, skills, and nerves that a great personal protection dog embody.

Ear Taping Your German Shepherd Dog

In German Shepherds, standing ears have been a staple of the breed's appearance since the very first were bred in the early 1900's. Unlike other breeds whose ears must be painfully cropped, the German Shepherd has been bred for ears that stand naturally, without the need for unnecessary surgery. Not only do standing ears give the appearance of alertness, but they more effectively channel sound, and are less prone to dirt and infection.

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Many people take it for granted that a German Shepherd's ears have always stood erect. However, German Shepherd puppies go through a process of growth in which the cartilage in their ears firms up, allowing them to stand. When the puppies are first born, their ears are much too soft to stand on their own. In the majority of puppies, the ears will naturally begin to stand between about 3 to 6 months with no extra help. Unfortunately, some puppies are born with softer ears than others, or cartilage that does not firm up enough for the ears to stand. The process of taping ensures that their ears will set properly, in the shape which was intended for the breed. It should be stressed that the majority of pups will have ears that stand naturally. Ear taping should only be used on pups who have shown no signs of standing ears after about 5 or 6 months.

The process of ear taping should not be left too late. In many cases, starting taping at 7 or 8 months may already be too late. It is important to monitor the growth of your dog's ears, and how they react to noise. Making noise and giving commands will encourage the pup to work the muscles around their ears, and encourage standing. If, by the 5th month, your pups ears have not shown signs of beginning to stand, you should consider taping. While it is recommended to have a vet tape the ears, it can be done at home as well. The most important consideration is to make sure that the right type of tape is used. Only clean surgical tape should be used. Any other type of tape, such as duct tape or scotch tape, can seriously damage your dog's ears. It is also important to purchase a safe adhesive, specifically designed for use on skin. The process of taping the dog's ears is fairly simple. You will need some form of soft cylindrical form to place in the ear-flap. The foam inside of hair-rollers, with the hard plastic parts removed, often work well. Apply the skin-bond glue to the foam, being careful not to apply excessive glue, allow the glue to contact your own skin, or allow the glue to drip into the ear of the dog. Gently place the foam along the inside flap of the ear, in an upright fashion. Leave space between the foam and the ear canal. Tape the ear around the foam in a cylindrical fashion, starting from the bottom. Be careful not to tape too loosely or too tightly, and you should be done.

Whether you have a police dog, a Executive Protection Dogs or a Personal Protection Dogs, healthy ears are an important part of your German Shepherd Puppy's development. If, at any time, you are in doubt about the health your puppy, you should never hesitate to contact your veterinarian for advice.

Sign of Cancer with your Dog

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Cancer, which is uncontrolled growth of cells on or within the body not only is harmful to humans, but it can also develop in dogs as well. As a guard dog owner, the last thing you want to hear is that your dog has cancer. Cancer can often be fatal, if not treated properly and in time. Commonly found in pet animals, the risk for developing cancer will increase with age. Almost half of the deaths of pets over ten years is a result of cancer. Unfortunately, the cause of most cancers is still unknown, making prevention near impossible. Cancer can occur in any location or body system of your guard dog, for example, the skin, stomach, kidney, bladder, brain and bones.

Advance in cancer research have helped to give us the knowledge of knowing different signs to detect cancer before it's too late for treatment. Each type of cancer has its own symptoms and own signs to look for. Skin tumors in dogs are quite common, the most diagnosed are melanomas, lipomas, basal cell tumors and mast cell tumors. If you ever see a lump or mass of any sort on your Executive Protection Dogs , take them to the vet to be examined. Lymphoma is another common cancer in dogs, that affects the digestive system, which will lead to lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea. This cancer can also affect the liver, resulting in lethargy, vomiting and a yellow shade to the gums and skin. If you notice your protection dog is constantly coughing and having a difficulty breathing, take them to the vet to have a check up. A sign to look for if you are for example the owner of an older female Belgian Malinois is a lump in the breast tissue. It is difficult to make an early diagnosis for abdominal tumors, which include hemangiosarcoma, mast cell tumors, lymphoma, and prostate cancer.

Signs too look for in your Protection Dogs are weight loss, weakness, pale gums, protracted vomiting, continual diarrhea, and abdominal enlargement. If you notice anything that could possibly be these symptoms of cancer, consult with your vet right away, it is better to be save than sorry. This is because if found early, most of these cancers can be cured with surgery, chemotherapy, radiation therapy or a combination. As a responsible Personal protection Dogs owner, pay attention to your dog's health and behaviors, it is crucial to keeping them healthy.

How to Protect Your Guard Dog Against Ringworm

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Despite the name, ringworm is actually caused by a form of fungus. Over 35 different species of this fungus exists, but only about four can cause ringworm in dogs. Of these four, Microsporum Canis is the most common. Ringworm is very contagious, and can be passed from dogs to humans. The risk of catching ringworm is especially high in young children. Infection can be spread by direct contact with an infected animal, or by contact with the spores which can live in sheets and carpeting for several months.

Ringworm can take as much as two weeks to develop into visible lesions after initial infection. The fungus grows within hair follicles in the skin, and causes hair in the infected area to break off at the root. As a result, ringworm infections often manifest in dogs as circular patches of missing fur. Many cases of ringworm can be identified by examination under ultra-violet light. However, only two of the four species of fungi that cause ringworm will fluoresce. The most accurate test is to have your veterinarian perform a hair culture on fur from the infected area, although this form of testing can take 2-3 weeks to perform.

If left untreated, ringworm will spread and cause painful sores, but once identified, infection can be treated fairly easily through anti-fungal medications. Unfortunately, ringworm is much more difficult to remove from the home, and reinfection will occur until remaining spores are dealt with. After an infection, it is recommended that you destroy and replace your dog's bedding, brushes, and other objects which frequently come into close contact with your dog's fur. Items that cannot be destroyed can be soaked in a mixture of hot water and iodine, and rinsed with water and diluted bleach. Clean the house thoroughly, and have carpets and upholstery steam-cleaned.

While ringworm is not often a dangerous or life-threatening illness, its persistence can make it difficult to deal with. In a  Guard Dogs, the skin irritation caused by ringworm can have a detrimental effect on concentration and overall performance. Weather you have a German Shepherd,Belgian Malinois, or Dutch Shepherd, it is important to check your Protection Dogs regularly for signs of ringworm and other signs of skin irritation. Do not hesitate to contact your veterinarian if you detect any signs illness.

Rules and Title of French Ring Sport

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French Ring Sport is a dog sport that originated out of France in the early 1900's. It shares a common history with Belgian Ring Sport which also originated around the same time, and the two sports are very similar. The purpose of French Ring Sport, like many dog sports that have come out of Europe, was to test dogs for their character and suitability for work and breeding. Since then, the rules have been changed and refined into a proper sport.

Dogs competing in the sport perform exercises in front of judges who award them a point total based on their performance. Regardless of which title the dog is competing for, it will be awarded a rank of Non Classe, Bon, Tres Bon or Excellent, corresponding with less than 60%, 60-70%, 70-80% and over 80% point totals. However, only dogs that achieve a score of over 80%, and a rank of Excellent, will qualify for the title and be able to compete for more challenging titles in following years.

Before a dog can compete for proper titles, it must pass an introductory test of obedience, intelligence and character known as Brevet. Just as with full titles, a dog must obtain a score of 80% of higher in order to pass and move on to full competition. After the initial introductory tests, there are three levels of French Ring titles simply known as French Ring 1 (FR1), French Ring 2 (FR2), and French Ring 3 (FR3). Each title tests obedience, agility and protection with FR1 offering the least difficult exercises and FR3 being the most challenging. Unlike most dog sports, dogs must compete twice for each level, in front of two different judges. A dog that has passed the first judging in FR1 is considered to be Level 1, while a dog that has passed both is considered to have the full French Ring 1 title. The same is true for both FR2 and FR3.

Unfortunately, while French Ring Sport is commendable as a sport, it is a far cry from real-world protection work. Whether you have a German Shepherd Dutch Shepherd or Belgian Mslinois, it is imperative that you train it for the work it will be doing. Training a dog for sport just isn't good enough for real Protection Dogs or Personal Protection Dogs work.

French Ring Sport Vertical Palisade

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French Ring Sport is a European dog sport that originated in France during the 1900's. It shares a common history with Belgian Ring Sport and has a similar set of rules. Although the idea of dog sport began as a way to test the working ability of participating dogs, French Ring and Belgian Ring have always been somewhat of a spectator sport, intended to impress on-lookers with feats of canine agility and bite-work. This has lead to the development of some of the most physically demanding exercises of all dog sports.

One of the toughest exercises in French Ring is known as the palisade. It is considered an advanced agility exercise, and is only required for Ring II and Ring III titles. The palisade is essentially a vertical wall that the dog is expected to scale. The palisade must be jumped twice in a single exercise: once over, and once more to return to the handler. The minimum height for a palisade is 1.7m (5.5′), but an additional 2 points are awarded for extra 0.1m of height added to the palisade, for a maximum of 2.3m (7.5′). To put this in perspective, most municipalities impose a limit of about 2m (6.5′) on fences surrounding residential property.

The palisade in French Ring is built from horizontal planks of wood stacked one atop another and held in place by two wooden posts. During training, an incline is sometimes added to one side of the palisade to allow the dog to descend easily rather than dropping the full height of the palisade to the ground. This incline is, of course, not present in official competition.

To train a dog to scale a 2.3m palisade is certainly an impressive feat, but one should keep in mind that impressive feats in sport do not always translate to effective protection in real life. A dog that can take on a palisade with a smooth wooden top may have a great deal more difficulty attempting to scale an uneven chain-link fence. Respect should be given to those who put in the immense amount of dedication required to train their German Shepherd or Belgian Malinois for French Ring, but true protection work should be left to dogs who have been properly trained for protection work in the real world.

Does Bull Terrier Make A Good Guard Dog ?

Dogs not only can be a loyal companion, they can also provide protection by guarding their human family and the area they consider their territory. A guard dog watches, threatens the intruder, and possibly attacks to the point of their retreat. When choosing a new dog to potentially be your guard dog, it is important to consider the breed's intelligence, ease of training, protection capabilities and attitude around strangers. Having a guard dog comes with all of the responsibilities that come with having a regular dog and even more. Their nutrition and medical needs all need to be met as well as giving the animal devoted love and attention.

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The Bull Terrier is a dog breed that would be a phenomenal choice for a guard dog. The Bull Terrier was bred in England as a fighting dog, however it is not the type of breed to provoke a fight. This dog is a strong built, muscular breed that can be extremely fearless. This breed is playful, sweet and overall good with people, which is very important to consider if you have a family. Bulldog Terriers often become protective of the children they're around. This breed can be an effective guard dog but also requires a great deal of training and companionship. It has a tendency to be stubborn and independent, so a professional is needed when it comes to training the Bull Terrier. They do not require much grooming, but they do need plenty of exercise. A fair sized yard is great to have as the owner of a Bull Terrier. Also long daily walks are needed to help work off their endless energy, since they could become destructive if not given enough attention or exercise. The Bull Terrier will be a great addition to your home not only as a Guard Dogs, but also as a new addition to the family.

Although we think the Bull Terrier is a great breed, there are huge differences in the strength, companionship and abilities of a Bull Terrier compared to say a German Shepherd, Protection Dogs.

German Shepherd Belgian Malinois be used As Sled Dogs?

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Sled dogs have been used by humans as a form of transportation for centuries. Native civilizations living in polar regions were dependent on large sledding dogs for survival in the frigid climate. Without them, hauling food and supplies across the arctic tundra to their villages would have been impossible. While still debated by scholars, it has been hypothesized that the nomadic Siberian people were once able to cross a now submerged land-bridge across the Bering Strait into what is now Alaska. It is possible that all sledding dogs could be descended from a common ancestor who was brought across this land-bridge with these native people.

The two most recognized breeds of sled dog, the Siberian Husky and the Alaskan Malamute, are considered to be two of the oldest living breeds. While the two are visually similar, and may share their ancestry, they are distinctly different breeds. The Alaskan Malamute is the larger of the two, and are named after Inuit people known as Mahlemut who lived along the Arctic coast of western Alaska. Their size and sheer strength is an indication that they were bred almost exclusively for their ability to freight heavy loads. The Siberian Husky is the smaller and faster of the two breeds. They originated in Northeastern Siberia alongside the Chukchi people who likely used them for freighting, as well as using them as herding dogs to steer reindeer, and as guard dogs to ward off large predators. Of course, both breeds are held in equally high regard for their ability as sled dogs.

Today, sled dogs are rarely used for freighting purposes and are primarily used for the sport of dog sledding. While the sport of dog sledding may not be quite as daunting a task as freighting the food supply for an entire village, it is not a sport to be taken lightly. Dog sledding courses are notoriously long and treacherous, and the food and supplies to survive such a journey are no light load to haul. Sled dog teams are composed of a number of dogs including a lead dog at the front of the pack, point dogs just bead the lead dog, wheel dogs who are closest to the sled, and any number of team dogs in between. These dogs share a close bond with each other, and with their musher whom they view as the leader of their pack.

While the Siberian Husky are Alaskan Malamute are still the most common breeds used for dog sledding, they are by no means the only breeds used. While it is uncommon, it is not unheard of for other working breeds such as German Shepherd or Belgian Malinois to be used. Of course, no matter the breed, is essential that sled dogs be physically and mentally prepared for the challenge. Mushers spend years both training and bonding with their dogs.

Firearm Exercise in French Ring

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One of the most important aspects of a good protection dog is good nerves. If you've ever seen a pet get spooked in a loud thunderstorm, you know how loud noises can often throw an animal off-guard. Even most humans jump at the sound of a large bang. For police officers, recognizing the sound of gunfire, being able to remain steady and calm, and being able to act quickly and effectively to neutralize the threat are all life-saving necessities. The exact same is true of Protection Dogs.

In French Ring sport, there is an exercise intended to test the nerves of a competing dog, and how it performs during gunfire. In this exercise, the decoy/helper is given a gun that fires blanks. The dog is instructed to take a bite on the decoy, and the decoy fires the gun twice during the approach. The decoy fires once more during the bite, and then freezes, at which point the dog lets go and begins to guard the decoy. The judge then signals for the decoy to attempt two escapes, during which the dog will take two more bites to prevent escape. Finally, the judge signals to the handler to disarm the decoy and end the exercise.

It is important that Personal Protection Dogs be trained around gunfire, and this exercise certainly accomplishes this. However, French Ring dogs are being trained with a fatal flaw that could end disastrously in a real-life situation. The third shot fired by the decoy is made after the dog has already taken a bite. In a real-life situation, this would be fatal to the dog. A criminal with a gun is not simply going to fire blanks into the air during a real confrontation; he's going to aim at the dog biting him. A true Executive Protection Dogs should always be trained to target the weapon-arm as a first priority. Waiting for the handler to disarm the opponent is simply absurd, and could quickly end in death. The sooner that the gun is out of the criminal's hand, the more of a chance there is that all involved will survive without serious injury.

The Belgian Malinois, and German Shepherds that compete in French Ring exercises are certainly impressive, but when it comes to true, functional protection work, you need dogs that are trained for real protection in real-life scenarios.